A Scottish Affair
As the plane descended over the emerald landscape of eastern Scotland, it dipped beneath the clouds, revealing the iconic panorama of Edinburgh with its ancient castle perched on a high hilltop. I felt a flutter of anticipation and familiarity. I was returning to Scotland, a country that had once been my home for a year, when a Fulbright Teacher Exchange in the Scottish highlands inspired a life-altering urge to explore.
This time, however, the journey was part of a long-stay adventure with my husband, Hank, and would take us to the coastal villages of Charlestown and Limekilns along the scenic shores of the Firth of Forth.
We’d been loose in the world for more than a decade. We’d wandered and roamed and stayed across the Americas and Europe—from Mexico and Nicaragua to Colombia, Peru, and Portugal—navigating the heartbreak of recurring goodbyes, the humbling effects of displacement, the pleasure of foreign words, and the magic of new friendships, a personal journey that forms the backdrop of my first book, I Could Live Here: A Travel Memoir of Home and Belonging, that released last week.
For this extended stay, home was a beautifully restored 300-year-old Scottish cottage in Charlestown—where it felt like we’d landed in Brigadoon: an imaginary place unaffected by time and remote from reality. Precisely the desired elixir for the chaotic nature of the times. The cozy cottage, once humble lodging for workers on the abutting estate of the Earl of Elgin, chief of Clan Bruce, became a refuge, a place that wrapped around me like a cozy tartan blanket. Daily walks along the promenade, the road by the waterfront where people jog and walk their dogs and push their babies in waterproof carriages, to the Limekilns pier where sailboats bobbed in the harbor, and, then, across the street for a coffee and a meal at Coorie By The Coast, a local café, introduced us to nearly everyone in the villages.
Leasing a car wasn’t in the plan, but it proved to be a liberating decision despite the initial challenges of adapting to driving on the 'other' side of the road. The winding coastal roads led to the charming East Neuk fishing villages, each one a postcard-worthy scene of colorful houses and picturesque harbors. The sea breezes carried the tang of salt and the promise of exploration, inspiring me to walk long stretches of the 117-mile Fife Coastal Path with its stunning views of the sea, beaches, and cliffs that connect one charming town to the next.
Weekly excursions into the heart of Edinburgh became a cherished routine, and the Stockbridge neighborhood emerged as a personal favorite. Its cobbled streets, boutique shops, and welcoming cafes provided a comforting urban contrast to the tranquility of coastal village life. The city's pulse resonated with history, art, and culture, starkly contrasting the serene landscapes surrounding Charlestown.
St Andrews, with its ancient university and windswept golf courses, called me back again and again. Toppings and Company Booksellers, a literary haven within the town's historic core, became a place of solace. The complimentary coffee, the crackling winter fire in the fireplace, and the frequent author events created an atmosphere of literary warmth that made it a favorite haunt—one that I knew I would miss long after leaving Scotland.
The village of Culross, the real-life backdrop for the fictional town of Cranesmuir in the Outlander series, was etched into my heart when a misplaced mobile phone led me to a local jeweler whose generosity and assistance resulted in the return of my iPhone and, even better, a cherished friend. Culross became more than just a picturesque village; it became a place where community threads are tightly woven.
Returning for a weeklong stay in the village of Findhorn stirred memories of friendships forged during the transformative year of 1991 when I lived nearby in Elgin. And reconnecting with old friends mirrored the joy of rediscovering the enchanting landscapes that had once been familiar territory.
Saying goodbye to Scotland proved to be the most challenging part of this adventure. The warmth of Scottish hospitality, the laughter shared with old and new friends, and the undeniable sense of belonging made leaving feel like leaving a part of myself behind. Scotland had become more than a destination; it had become a second home.
As I boarded the plane en route to Portugal and another adventure, I carried with me the indelible imprints of Scotland's beauty, people, and unpredictable weather. The memories of the cozy Charlestown cottage, the vibrant energy of Edinburgh, the windswept shores of St Andrews, and the unexpected kindness of Culross will forever hold a special place in my heart. Scotland, with its timeless charm and the embrace of its people, was a love affair that transcended time and distance.
Ellen Barone is co-founder and publisher of YourLifeIsATrip.com and is the author of I Could Live Here: A Travel Memoir of Home and Belonging (November 2023).
Photos by Ellen Barone. Lead photo: @fourcolourblack
